Our first visit to Giuseppe Mongelli's “La Gimonda” farm was one of the most memorable visits that we've experienced. We loved Giuseppe's humanity and willingness to question and explore everything to achieve something more, something real. Even so, we knew the wines were special far before we met him. It was apparent from the first encounter that we had with his 2010 Viceré IGT. A wine of such originality, intellect and regal character is a rarity. This is especially true given that the Viceré vineyard (that the wine is named for) is in the marginalized Chianti zone.

Giuseppe purchased the farm in 2002 from an older neighbor who was ready to retire after decades of making wine the old way and selling it locally in Demijohn. In an age where much of Italy has descended into the easy consistency and uniformity of a more modern approach obsessed with control, Giuseppe wholeheartedly embraced natural and simple vineyard work, and a cellar approach that could be hands-off provided the farming promoted a thriving vineyard full of life. In short, Giuseppe embraced the tried and true farming standards of old.

In speaking more deeply with him, he speaks in a largely philosophical, non-technical manner. To him, wines have distinct personalities and phases of life. He spoke of crying during the 2007 harvest because the vines were in such natural equilibrium that he had never seen such beautiful grapes harvested.

Giuseppe explains how there are over 5,000 active chemical processes during fermentation. Humans can control a few hundred, if lucky. With such complexity happening naturally, why would one try to master or coerce the process? This willingness to observe and to learn, and to let go of ego, is critical to how he raises such soulful wines.

These wines are intense, broad and deep, yet not rustic. There is a fineness to them that makes them at home without food, as much as with food. These also are wines to be described in terms of personality or character because they have such clear personalities (especially vintage to vintage).

Other winemakers famous for their philosophically based and simple approach despite technical careers come to mind - Diego Molinari and Francesco Leanza, to name a few. If Giuseppe had land in Montalcino, he would likely be famous.

In parallel with other "like" winemakers, Giuseppe only makes a few different wines. There are no Riserva or Rosso bottles here. Only one wine from the finest grapes from each of his three vineyards sites, named accordingly. Buscheto is bottled under the Chianti DOCG appellation whereas Viceré is bottled as IGT.

Viceré so far outperforms the modern reputation of Chianti that Giuseppe felt it would be better to bottle as a Super Tuscan. Meaning "the right hand of the King", Viceré was originally a nod to the fact that there would always be another peak to reach. He still believes this - although in a more mature phase of his life and winemaking career, he recently released a third wine from a new site named Leruà, or "The King”.

In the vineyards, he farms the land naturally with no pesticides or herbicides. Earth is turned each year to prevent compaction. Legumes and other cover crop are planted to enrich the topsoil to foster biodiversity and life. Giuseppe has a recent resolution to be in his vineyards for at least an hour every day, year-round. He knows his vines and the land like the back of his hand.

Viceré vines are 78 years old (as of 2019). The vine material came from Castellina in Chianti. If replanting is needed, Massale selection is used. The Buscheto vineyard is 25 years old (as of 2024) and is comprised of the same vine material. Colorino is planted too, as both Buscheto and Viceré include small percentages of Colorino. Leruà is 100% Sangiovese.

Harvest is determined by tasting grapes from each sub-plot. Giuseppe looks for balanced sugar and acid levels, 'crunchy' skin and stems that are mostly brown but have green tip where the grapes are attached. He explained how intensity of sunlight is not important to quality. Instead, it is about the consistent length of light, implying that vines need time each day to "warm up" to maximize the efficiency of biological processes.

The cellar itself is spartan and small; only including what is absolutely needed. Its truly fitting to Giuseppe's approach. Both primary and malolactic fermentation happen spontaneously, regardless of how long they take. Grapes are macerated for fermentation within an hour of being manually picked. Both wines are made only from free run juice and Inox is the primary fermentation vessel. After fermentation, both wines then rest in cement.

Buscheto is bottled directly from cement whereas Viceré is aged in oak for about an additional year. Giuseppe finds that the impression of oak can intensify or recede from month to month. He makes sure he bottles during a period when the perception of oak is low. Typically 2-3 year old barrels are used with the occasional new barrel.

The wines are also released only when Giuseppe believes that they are ready. Interestingly, the 2012 Viceré was released before the 2011. 2011 was widely regarded as a broader and earlier drinking vintage to 2012 in much of Tuscany.

Decisions such as these are in sharp contrast to the more commercially minded operations where corners can be cut in the name of business and the importance cannot be understated. Growers such as Giuseppe watch the prospect of cash flow evaporate when they make decisions like this - sometimes deferring money for years because it is the best decision for the wine and the consumer. Think about that in the context of the mass of homogenized wine that clutters shop shelves. These wines are true pieces of natural art fostered by a true artist.